Poor Excelsior Mountain, always in the shadow (literally) of its bigger and more popular neighbor, Mt Conness. The next highest point to the north, Excelsior doesn’t have any dramatic cliffs or sharp ridgelines to distinguish it from other peaks in the area, and it is often overlooked. In fact, I had never heard of it until I was panning around a map a few months ago looking for interesting dayhikeable peaks between Yosemite and Sonora Pass.

Having never seen pictures, read trip reports, or even heard of this peak I was surprised to find it on the SPS list. I was also pleased to read that it is essentially a class 1 walkup (assuming you know the right route). About 10 miles round trip, split evenly between easy trail walking and mostly easy cross-country, I decided it would make a good Sunday peak before driving home. It had the added bonus of starting out of a trailhead I’ve never used, so the whole thing would be new and interesting!

The hike to Excelsior starts at the trailhead at the end of the road into Virginia Lakes at approximately 9800 ft. After finishing my coffee and scone from Lee Vining’s Latte Da coffee shop, I threw on my pack and started up the trail at 8 am on the nose. Having never hiked this trail before I took some time to enjoy the views as I worked my way west through some beautiful meadows and lakes basins. Over about 2.5 miles, the trail generally climbs gently, then switchbacks a final few hundred feet to an unnamed pass at 11k.

From this pass I set off cross-country. The terrain was wide open and easy walking, and I was making fast progress. By 10 am I was sitting at some small lakes tucked in a basin below the crux of the climb. I rested, snacked, and drank some water while contemplating the next step in my journey to the summit.

Ahead of me was a steep red hill. I had read a few trip reports that described this hill as the hardest part of the climb, with bad footing and loose rocks tumbling down the slopes of the steep hill. Fortunately, I had also received very recent beta that recommended taking the left side of the hill instead of contouring around the more appealing looking right slope.

Despite it looking steeper, when I got closer I saw a clear use trail up the left ridge of the hill. It was steep but like most peaks, it was far less intimidating up close. In fact, the scale had thrown me a bit – it looked huge from a distance but in reality it was only a few hundred feet up this hill to its top at 11,700 ft.

I trudged up the use trail at popped out at the top of the hill in no time at all. Relieved to be past this ‘crux’, I looked at the terrain in front of me. I didn’t remember anything about this part, so I guessed on the route. Again, it looked far bigger than it was in reality, and as I got closer it became clear to me to aim for the low point on the ridge. Some people go over the high point but that just requires some unnecessary climbing.

When I reached the ridge at 12,000 ft I was greeted by a field of sky pilot, my favorite flower. This was definitely turning out to be a wise choice of a peak. It wasn’t even 11 am and I was only 0.5 miles and 400 ft of climbing away from the summit. I was smelling my favorite flower, and then had another treat – a bear was running across the western slope of the peak! He was in the distance and impossible to photograph with the lens on my camera, but he definitely was there. That’s the highest I’ve ever seen a bear.

Contouring around to the summit, I was sitting on top of the rock pile by 11:30 am.

From the summit I could see why this peak had never been on my radar. Mt Conness blocks it from view from several locations, and it isn’t visible from 395. It’s been so long since I’ve climbed the other Yosemite peaks that would have a good view of it that I just didn’t remember it. I haven’t done much to the north of Excelsior, but the view definitely was inviting enough to have me digging through maps to figure out my next target!

At 12:10 I decided to head down. I hoped to make it home before dark and I had a good 5 hours of driving ahead of me. The descent was super speedy, and I was back at the car a little after 2:15. I normally don’t care much about my time (some people are really into setting and beating PRs on peaks), but I was feeling good and decided to track it.

By 3 pm I was munching on a burger and chocolate shake in Bridgeport, and by 7:30 I was home and unpacking in San Jose. I really enjoyed this peak for many reasons. While out solo I don’t like to do too challenging terrain and this was easy, it was a new trailhead for me so I was interested the whole way, the views were spectacular, the sky pilot was out, I saw a bear, I got away from the Yosemite crowds I had dealt with the previous day, and I still got home before dark. That’s what I call a good day in the mountains.

Style:

In and Out day hike, half on trail, half cross-country. The cross-country component is mainly class 1 if the right path is followed. See map and GPS track, as well as the detailed blog post linked below.

Distance:

9.5 miles round trip from Virginia Lakes trailhead.

Elevation Gain:

+/- 2900 ft

Trailhead and Permit Notes:

There are no permits required for day hiking Excelsior Mountain. For overnights into the backcountry, a permit is necessary and can be reserved and picked up at the Mono Lake Visitor center.

Although the trail starts on the Inyo National Forest and is mainly within Hoover Wilderness, the final approach to the summit is within Yosemite National Park boundaries and therefore no dogs are allowed. The rock is crumbly and would probably hurt the pup’s paws, so please leave your friend at home for this one.

Resources:

Useful Guides and Gear:

Excelsior Mountain (12,446') (07.14.2013)

79 photos