The Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne is aptly named. The Canyon follows the Tuolumne river as it drops from the Meadows down to Hetch Hetchy, where the river empties into the reservoir. As the river descends down the canyon the walls get relatively higher and higher, and the resulting scenery is kind of a mix between the Grand Canyon and Yosemite Valley.
Trip Report
Glen Aulin
We spent the 4th of July weekend backpacking through this incredible scenery. The route we took started at the Lembert Dome parking area and took us into the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp backpacker’s camp for the first night. It was a simple and easy day, nice for acclimating and enjoying the beautiful Tuolumne River. The camp was crowded, being July 4, but here’s a hint for anyone going into Glen Aulin: go past the first cluster of backpacker sites and walk up the hill to the last set of sites. They are much bigger, less buggy, more spread apart, and less crowded. When we arrived, the lower sites were packed. I walked up the hill to the far sites and they were empty with the exception of one quiet couple.
Sunset from Glen Aulin, Conness in the background
After a bear-less night in Glen Aulin, day two took us fourteen miles down the Canyon to Pate Valley. With a 5000 foot descent, the day got progressively hotter and hotter. But this was no problem – the stunning turquoise Tuolumne river provided plenty of foot soaking and swimming opportunities, many of them presenting themselves at just the perfect time. We encountered a serendipitous waterfall with a swimming hole just after a hot climb that took us over Muir Gorge.
Swimming Hole
Just before reaching Pate Valley we saw a bear foraging, so as we selected a campsite this was in the back of my mind. I ended up finding us a site on the far side of the Pate Valley footbridge, hoping that Mr Bear didn’t like crossing bridges. Since the bear was foraging, I hoped he was wild enough that he would leave us alone. I don’t know how many backpackers Pate Valley sees, but considering that it is a minimum of a 4000 ft descent into and climb out of the Valley, I don’t think it sees too many.
Paige strolled into camp with a bag of trout she’d caught over the last few miles of trail, and Dave cleaned and cooked them for us. It was a nice treat to share after the long day’s hike! Even with the fishbreath, no bears bothered us overnight, though there was some barking from a fox or coyote near camp at one point.
Day 3 took us up and out of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, climbing 4000 feet back to White Wolf, where we had left cars. Depending on the map or signs that you believe, the hike is anywhere from 8.4 to 10.4 miles. I think it was closer to the 8.4, but I didn’t really care about distance – it was all about knocking off those 4000 feet. We left camp early to get the climb out of the way before the forecasted 90 degree midday heat, and it ended up being a rather pleasant shaded climb along cobblestone trails. I was glad to be going up and not down – those cobblestone trails always make me nervous about an ankle twist when going down.
Climbing out of Pate Valley
As I climbed I got some nice views down into Hetch Hetchy, though the pervasive smoke dampened the distant views. Doing the hike this direction ends rather undramatically – the high point at the end of the climb is an unremarkable hill along mosquito-ey meadows. It meanders into White Wolf where a cold coke and bag of chips awaited me.
If I did this hike again I would still choose to go in this direction – I think I might not have enjoyed the second day’s hike through the Canyon as much if I had to climb that 5000 feet. The climb out of Pate Valley back to White Wolf has nice scenery, but it’s mostly about getting that climb done, so you’re not missing too much as you haul yourself up that hill. Also, that first easy day into Glen Aulin allows for that first day adjustment and time pad after the long drive to the mountains, the shuttle setup, and the permit pick-up.
Wildlife sightings: mountain quail, bear, rattlesnakes, king snake, garter snake, gopher snake, marmots, lots of fish, chipmunks, deer.
Thanks for the virtual field-trip through the canyon! I am planning a trip with some boys from a church group and was looking for info on this trip when I stumbled on your site. Looks like it would be a fairly relaxing 5 day trek through some beautiful country. Loved your pictures! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this. My father and I did the same hike in the other direction back in 1973, but over four days. We were also there over the 4th of July weekend so we had the mosquitos, but fortunately no bears. The 5000 foot total climb from Pate Valley to Tuolumne Meadows wasn’t too bad when done over three days, though the drop into Pate Valley on the first day was rough on our knees and feet. I liked the way we went as we saved the best and coolest section for last.
Next time park at the stables, it’s closer. And if you want to eat trout for a couple of days turn right at Pate valley and head towards Benson lake. If you liked the 4,000′ climb back to White Wolf you will just love this route. You can then return to Glen Aulin via the Pacific Crest Trail. Smedberg Lake is also loaded with trout. And if you are really adventurous you can travel cross country from Pleasant Valley to Benson Lake. I believe this area to be the best that YNP has to offer. But as the author so astutely noticed, you may not see another person, especially if you go after Labor day. Do not go there alone!!!!!
Mark, a friend and I are tentatively planning on doing your route the first week in October, weather permitting. Any other helpful hints for the route? The past two years, we’ve explored the south side of the Valley. This will be our first on the north side, albeit the north side of Tioga. Thanks!
Hi,
I’m doing the the trail from White Wolf to Glen Aulin.
I wondering how you arrange the transportation, I was hoping I can ride the hiker’s shuttle, but it only starts from valley, but time it turns around it would be too late. Because I’m planning on par my car at Tuolumne Meadow camp there the night before, start the hike from White Wolf the next day morning and hike the way back to my car.
Any tips you can share on arrange the transportation?
Thanks
We had a group so we had several cars to use for a shuttle. I’m not sure how the hiker shuttle works from the valley.
quick post trip update:
There is a hiker’s shuttles starts from the valley to the Meadow and goback.
The but goes back to the Valley in the afternoon, it stop at Tuolumne campground store around 2:15pm, you can ride the bus back to WW, $7 per person.
Great write up! I did this route this past October but in the opposite direction and it was amazing! But also difficult 😉 You can read about my trip here: http://www.fuel4play.com/2017/02/yosemite-birthday-backpacking-grand.html
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