Valley of the Gods, Monument Valley, and Navajo National Monument

Sunrise in Valley of the Gods
Sunrise in Valley of the Gods

Having survived the rainy night we awoke to grey but dry skies and packed up the truck in between photos of the stunning terrain that surrounded us. Valley of the Gods is BLM land and a great place to experience the beauty of Southern Utah without all the restrictions and regulations of National Park Land. Driving out, we wound our way through the red rock buttes before hitting pavement, having to cross a small stream that hadn’t been there the evening before when we drove in.

As we headed south towards Monument Valley we made a couple of side trips. Only a few miles off the road is Goosenecks State Park, essentially a bluff-top parking area with a famous view of the goosenecks in the San Juan River. There was a whole tour bus that had camped there the previous night so suddenly the paste-like mud we had dealt with in Valley of the Gods didn’t seem so bad (Goosenecks was my backup spot).

 

San Juan River Goosenecks
San Juan River Goosenecks

A few photos later and we were back on the road, passing through the small town of Mexican Hat, UT (named for the nearby upside-down sombrero shaped rock) and shortly crossing into Navajo Territory. Along the way a familiar view came into sight – you may remember this from Forrest Gump and any number of other movies/car commercials.

After a breakfast stop at Gouldings (a hotel/giftshop/RV park and the *only* thing in the area) we drove into Monument Valley. $5 is the entry fee and National Park Passes are not accepted (it is a Navajo Tribal Park). The skies were a bit dull for photography so we decided to do the short hike (the Wildcat Trail) around the famous western Mitten Butte. It’s the only hiking trail in the park and the only place you are allowed to hike without a guide. We enjoyed our tour through the desert including our interactions with wild horses and reservation dogs.

 

Monument Valley
Monument Valley
Hiking around Mitten Butte
Hiking around Mitten Butte

Following the hike we drove a few miles in on the dirt park road to check the views from some different angles. Sprinkled among the turnouts are wild horses, more wandering reservation dogs, vendors selling jewelry, navajo tacos, and services like getting your photo taken on top of a horse. I enjoyed our visit to the park – seeing that classic view in person was great. I just wish the light was better for photography.

 

Reservation Dogs begging tourists for treats
Reservation Dogs begging tourists for treats
Vendors at a viewpoint
Vendors at a viewpoint

After the morning at Monument Valley we continued west and took a short side trip into Navajo National Monument. It was icy cold but we did the short hike to the viewpoint of the ruins in the canyon below. I would love to come back and do one of the guided tour hikes into the actual ruins – they looked incredible. There were tools and baskets, and from a distance it looked like they were abandoned yesterday. After a short visit we continued west towards our destination for the night – Paria Canyon/Grand Staircase Escalante.

 

Betatakin Ruins, Navajo National Monument
Betatakin Ruins, Navajo National Monument

The weather still was not cooperating. Once we got back into cell phone signal range I pulled up the radar.  Big splotches of storms covered the area over our intended campsite for the night with no end in sight. I was still soaked and muddy from the previous night. We had planned on stopping for a shower in Page, AZ anyways, so that turned into “let’s just get a cheap hotel and dry out”. An hour later we were snug and dry in the Rodeway Inn, in the second to last available room in town (overheard the clerk on the phone with another hotel: “Just filled our last room, I think Motel 6 has one or two rooms left.”) We listened to some big storms roll through and were glad we weren’t out there. Normally I’ll just suck it up but we hadn’t had a shower since Denver – it was time to stop, dry out, warm up, and regroup. And also to have some BBQ and beer for dinner. Mmm.

Next Stop: Grand Staircase Escalante, Paria Canyon, and THE WAVE!

Links:

Monument Valley Wildcat Trail


Family Visit to Arkansas

And now for something completely different.

Last month I traveled to Arkansas with my In-Laws to visit David’s Grandpa in Hot Springs Village. We made a week of it and got in some valuable outdoor time at Petit Jean State Park and in the Ozarks along the Buffalo National River. I wasn’t sure what to expect in Arkansas; while getting ready for the trip I sometimes felt like I was preparing for a more foreign destination than my regular work trips to Germany.  However, I ended up having a great time enjoying the green forests, rocks, rivers and waterfalls of northern Arkansas.

Check out the tabs below for a sampling of some of the fun things we got to see –  a departure from the typical scenery we get here in California.

I saw many impressive waterfalls on my visit to Arkansas and this was the first. Cedar Falls is within Petit Jean State Park and involves a short but steep hike down into a valley, then up the creek to the falls. At the end of the hike you are rewarded with this:

 

Cedar Falls, Petit Jean SP
Cedar Falls, Petit Jean SP
Cedar Falls, Petit Jean SP
Cedar Falls, Petit Jean SP

Additional Photos

Cedar Falls and Bear Cave Rocks, Petit Jean State Park

A nice hike to a couple of waterfalls near the Buffalo River.

 

Lost Valley
Lost Valley
Lost Valley
Lost Valley

Additional Photos

 

Lost Valley, Buffalo National River

A hike through the woods to a great viewpoint and rock formation over the  Buffalo River.

 

 

Hawksbill Crag, Buffalo National River
Hawksbill Crag, Buffalo National River

 

The hike goes along this ridge
The hike goes along this ridge

 

Ozark view from Hawksbill Crag
Ozark view from Hawksbill Crag

Additional Photos

 

Hawksbill Crag, Buffalo National River

There are a lot of caves in the Ozark region and we stopped for the basic tour of one of them, followed by a short hike to the outlet of the underground spring. It was a fun afternoon, I’d love to do the ‘wild’ cave tour though. The paved-trail-guided-tour-large-group-walk method isn’t my style.

Blanchard Caverns
Blanchard Caverns

 

 

Blanchard Caverns
Blanchard Caverns

 

Blanchard Springs
Blanchard Springs

Additional Photos from Blanchard Springs

We spent one day wandering Hot Springs National Park. It’s weird to visit a National Park like this – where it’s all about the history and the buildings.

Bath House  Row
Bath House Row
There is nothing soothing about this
There is nothing soothing about this
The Spring under the Bath House
The Spring under the Bath House

More Photos from Hot Springs National Park

The wildflowers in Arkansas must have been close to their peak while we were visiting. We took several short wildflower strolls and I wanted to share some of them here. There were many similar flowers to the ones we get in California but I found some interesting different blooms as well.

 

Wildflower Photos 1
Wildflower Photos 2

Solitude in Yosemite Valley Hike #3: Old Big Oak Flat Road

Old Big Oak Flat Road and El Capitan
Old Big Oak Flat Road and El Capitan

The history of access to Yosemite Valley is interesting – highways 120, 140, and 41 have not always been there. One of the first paved roads into the Valley was the original Big Oak Flat Road (a history can be found here). It was a dangerous road and was eventually replaced with the safer tunnel design of the current road, and then eventually taken out via a major rockslide in the 1940s. Today this road is an afterthought, a forgotten footpath frequently blocked by rockslides and overgrown trees.

This road is quite visible from many points in the Valley. As you descend 41 from the Tunnel View, look across the valley at the slopes west of El Capitan. You’ll clearly see an old road cut through the terrain. It disappears in places (where it has been taken out by rockslides) but it’s easy to visually pick it out.

Read more

Yosemite News: Tioga Pass, No-Fee Weekend, and WATER

It’s a big weekend in Yosemite. It has been announced on the park website that:

The Tioga Road (Highway 120 through the park) will open on Saturday, June 5, 2010 at 8 am, conditions permitting.

Half Dome, May 2007
Half Dome, May 2007

This is good timing since this weekend is also free admission to Yosemite, as well as more than 100 other National Park properties. If you can’t make it this weekend to enjoy the $20 waiver, don’t worry – there are other opportunities:

  • June 5-6, 2010
  • August 14-15, 2010
  • September 25, 2010
    (Public Lands Day)
  • November 11, 2010
    (Veterans Day)

If you visit the National Parks regularly (you should!) I recommend just getting the annual pass. At $80 per year (not calendar year – it’s good for a year from the date you buy it), it pays for itself quickly if you visit parks like Yosemite which have a $20 entrance fee. I probably make up the $80 in one summer month of driving across Tioga Pass.

Finally, if you DO get the opportunity to head out to Yosemite to enjoy the arrival of summer, be careful out there. This year’s heavy snow and recent warm temperatures have really churned out the water. Rivers and creeks are very high with strong currents. The National Weather Service has even issued a special statement about the high water levels – be careful!

Ventana Wilderness Pine Valley Backpack

Pine Valley
Pine Valley

I just enjoyed a cold and rainy spring backpack in Pine Valley in the Ventana Wilderness of Los Padres National Forest. We accessed Pine Valley via the Pine Ridge Trail, starting at the China Camp trail head.

On Friday evening we drove out to the small campground at the trail head and enjoyed a warm campfire and dinner. The road from pavement is long, steep, rutted, and twisty, but we had no problem getting in (and neither did the several sedans at the trail head, clearly, though I wouldn’t bring a low clearance car on that road). We were surprised to be joined by several other people that night – the place feels so remote that I imagined we would have it to ourselves.

Friday night was clear and cold but we awoke to a foggy and damp Saturday morning. Luckily I had packed car camping gear separate from my backpacking kit so everything was dry for the hike. By 10 am we hit the Pine Ridge trail, climbing steadily from the trail head parking to the ridge 400 feet above. This first stretch passes through an obvious burn zone from the Big Basin Complex fire last year.

Read more

Chasing the Yosemite Firefalls

Gloomy Day
Gloomy Day

Even though I’ve gotten out on some good dayhikes, I’ve spent the past few weekends stuck in the Bay Area and the cabin fever has really set in. I was determined to head to the mountains this weekend, and the siren call of the Yosemite Horsetail Firefall window called my name. Many who are familiar with Yosemite know the history of the real firefalls, where a bonfire would be pushed over the Valley rim, but the environmentally correct, 21st century version is created by Mother Nature. In late winter, the angles of the setting sun, when combined with the snowmelt runoff, can create a natural firefall, with the falling water illuminated with a bright orange glow.

Several variables need to come together to make the firefalls happen, and I knew that my only chance of making the window would be this weekend, so weather forecast be damned, I was going to head to the Valley no matter what the forecast had in store for us. We headed out Saturday morning and did some snowshoeing around Crane Flat (I would have preferred my cross country skis, but didn’t get around to waxing them in time). We then headed to the Valley and set up camp at Upper Pines and headed over to the Ansel Adams museum. After a reality check, we accepted the fact that the thick overhead clouds were going to restrict any possible appearance of the firefalls and headed over to Curry Village for dinner. A nice campfire sent us to bed and then the rains kicked in overnight. The constant drizzle this morning kept us from any more snowshoe adventures, but it was still great to get out to the mountains and play in the snow a bit. Can’t wait to spend some more time up there this winter!