Thousand Lakes Wilderness: Everett Lake, Magee and Crater Peaks

Lassen from Magee Peak
Lassen from Magee Peak

Last weekend we visited  Thousand Lakes Wilderness, nestled in the volcanic terrain between Lassen National Park and Burney Falls. While we’re familiar with much of the local area the wilderness itself was new to us and we looked forward to an easy backpack and some fishing.

After a long five hour drive from San Jose and some meetup confusion with a friend, we finally were on our way from the Cypress Trailhead to Everett Lake. The beginning of the hike was a slog along a dusty, steadily climbing trail with no views. I wasn’t terribly impressed. But as we got closer to the small basin containing the lake the views started to open up and I started enjoying the hike.

There are no permits or quotas required for Thousand Lakes wilderness so the lakes were pretty busy. But, as always, five minutes of extra effort found us a nice campsite away from the crowds. It amazes me how lazy backpackers can be, dropping their pack at the first available campsite. Some of my favorite spots have been at incredibly busy areas. Something about finding that secret, out of the way camp site that no one else has discovered is rewarding.

After setting up camp the guys decided to crack open the beer and fish. I, however, had loftier goals. The eroded former Thousand Lakes volcano is now a narrow rim that circles a portion of the Lakes valley. The high points on the rim are all named peaks. Which means I had to stand on top of them. So at 3pm I set off towards the rim with the goal to hit as many as possible before my 5pm turn around time.

View of Red Cliff
View of Red Cliff

There is a trail that leads from the lakes up to a low point on the rim. As I hiked up this trail I was a bit dismayed to see a large amount of snow and even cornices clinging to the rim. But I kept going since I wanted to get a better view of the incredibly colorful and dramatic volcanic rock. As I got closer to the rim, just at the edge of the snow, I could see that the trail switchbacked up a melted-out rib. Yay!

By 4pm I was on the rim and heading to Magee Peak, an undramatic bump on the ridge. The views towards Lassen were incredible. After a short break at the summit for photos and log book signing I headed over to the high point, Crater Peak. It looked like a bushwhack from hell but the snakey use trails through the bushes made the climb quite easy. A couple of short talus fields caught me by surprise – a teeny bit of (avoidable) class 2 to make the climb a bit more fun.

Me on Crater Peak (Lassen in Background)
Me on Crater Peak (Lassen in Background)

After a short summit visit I hit my 5 pm turnaround time so there would be no going along the other edge of the rim to hit the other named peaks. At least I have a reason to come back…

A cross-country shortcut back to the trail saved me a lot of time and I was back in camp at 5:50. David had some minor success fishing and all the guys were trying to catch more. I cleaned up and wolfed down all the food I carried in – too hungry from my extra ~6 miles and 2000 ft of gain to wait for the fishies!

Morning view of Everett Lake and Crater Peak from Camp
Morning view of Everett Lake and Crater Peak from Camp

I’m glad we finally visited this little tucked-away wilderness. The scenery was a nice change and reminded me of Lassen, a place I haven’t backpacked in years. With no permits required and no quotas it’s a great last-minute place to slip away to. Don’t miss the peaks – a large part of my enjoyment of the area was drinking in the views from that volcanic rim – it’s incredible up there!

Additional Photos and Details

Thousand Lakes Wilderness: Crater and MaGee Peaks, Everett Lake


Easter Weekend at Lava Beds

One of my favorite places to visit in mid-spring is Lava Beds National Monument, a remote pocket of land at the California-Oregon border. It is covered with the remains of significant volcanic activity which means lots of interesting terrain to explore. At last count they had over 700 known lava tube caves in the park boundary and growing (on my first visit the number was closer to 300). Much of the surrounding national forest is still snowed in and inaccessible at this time of year so the area is quiet and lacking in people – a perfect place to get away for a holiday weekend, as long as you don’t mind a long drive.

We headed up early Friday morning and stopped in Dunsmuir for breakfast at the Cornerstone Bakery (don’t miss their cinnamon roles) before stretching our legs on the short trail to Hedge Creek Falls. I’ve always wanted to see these falls, supposedly saved by locals when the original plan for Highway 5 would have plowed right over it. It’s a quick stop off of Highway 5 – a short walk (5 mins) down a switchbacking trail to the bottom of the falls.

 

Hedge Creek Falls
Hedge Creek Falls

From Dunsmuir we continued on to Klamath Falls (Oregon) for gas and supplies before heading south into Lava Beds. We pulled into the quiet and deserted (save a couple sites) campground around 5pm and got our favorite site with a view across the Monument. There aren’t many places you can do this in California on a holiday weekend! Paige and Greg joined us shortly thereafter and we took a short walk to a nearby backcountry ice cave.

Inside the ice cave - floor is ice
Inside the ice cave - floor is ice

A quick word about the caves in Lava Beds: There are several ‘developed’ caves in the park – i.e. caves that are labeled on maps, have parking areas, and have ladders/steps built into them and sometimes even paths built through them. But for each developed cave there are 50 (known) ‘wild’ backcountry caves. Part of the fun of visiting lava beds is studying the maps and lava flow diagrams to figure out where to find these wild caves. While the developed caves are fun and interesting, there is something much more rewarding about finding them on your own. So this is how we spent Saturday – wandering off-trail to follow several tubes and collapses and exploring the caves along the way.

I’m not including a GPS track of our route – sorry. If you want to find them, the information is out there. You just have to know where to look. And it will likely involve paper maps and books – the web is pretty silent on this topic.

Our first stop was a cave and arch not far off the Lyons trail – this is the easiest one to find.

Lava Beds Collapse
Lava Beds Collapse

We followed the collapse trenches for a while and peeked into all the caves we found. Many were basic short lava tubes, but we found one in particular that delighted us. It had a steep descent through lava talus into a deep dark hole where the headlamps couldn’t see. Inside we found bones and a cave register that had only been signed three times (and only by rangers) since 2007.

 

Descending into a cave
Descending into a cave

After our ~11 mile wandering and caving we were back at camp to enjoy a night around the campfire. On Sunday morning it began raining so we packed up and headed out. As we pulled into Valentine Cave, a developed cave on the way out of the park, it turned to snow. After a quick visit to the comparatively warm and dry environment of the lava tube we headed south towards home, making the obligatory visit to McArthur-Burney state park to check out the falls.

Burney Falls
Burney Falls

Full photo album: Easter Weekend at Lava Beds

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Photo Album: Easter Weekend at Lava Beds

Lava Beds National Monument