Mount Whitney Training Hikes: Bay Area Edition

Main Mt Whitney Trail, just below Trail Crest
Main Mt Whitney Trail, just below Trail Crest

Modern Hiker recently published a great post about training and preparing to climb Mt. Whitney. Hop on over there and give it a read, especially the parts about altitude. Go ahead, I’ll wait.

Casey wrote about some training hikes in Southern California, and that inspired me to think about good training hikes in the Bay Area. These are lower in elevation than the Southern California hikes and won’t prepare you for the affects of altitude, but they will help you understand how it feels to put in a long day on the trail.

South Bay

"The Shortcut". And this is the easy part.
"The Shortcut". And this is the easy part.

Mount Sizer Loop (Henry Coe State Park)

If you’ve never hiked over 15 miles or over 4000 feet in a day I highly recommend doing this hike before committing to Whitney. I try to do it every spring as a benchmark of my hiking condition going into the summer. It is a 16 mile, 4500 ft of gain and descent hike at the minimum, and there are options to make it longer if desired.

In fact, hiking a long distance to anywhere in Henry Coe is good training. As I’ve said in this blog before, people don’t go to Coe to train for the Sierra, they go to the Sierra to train for Coe. Steep roads, east-west trails that pass over endless parallel north-south ridges, and the heat all conspire to beat you down. Learning how to make these kind of hikes bearable, and even enjoyable, was a triumph of my hiking career.

Sizer is the highest point in Henry Coe State Park and the hike along Blue Ridge is excellent – you can see deep into the park’s backcountry and find all kinds of interesting trees and wildflowers. One other reason I like this hike is that it can be done on fire roads only (the track I include here has one stretch of single-track trail), so it’s easy to avoid poison oak if you’re really sensitive to it. This hike will take you on the “Shortcut”, often cited as the steepest trail in the Bay Area. Choose your loop direction based on whether you prefer going up or down really steep trails. I prefer going up.

Peninsula

On the way to Sombroso in 8 inches of snow
On the way to Sombroso in 8 inches of snow

Kennedy Road in Sierra Azul (Mt El Sombroso)

Kennedy Road is a trail that starts in the hills above Los Gatos and climbs up to the main ridge of  Sierra Azul Open Space Preserve. The stretch to the first trail junction is a steady uphill slog, and then you have the option of making a loop along some roller coaster rolling hills (gain 200 ft, lose 200 ft, rinse, repeat a million times) or heading to the summit of Mt El Sombroso. Sombroso is an uninteresting high point of the ridge, complete with a PG&E tower and wires and trees blocking 80% of the view. However, it makes a good turnaround spot for an in-and-out hike up Kennedy Road that will get you 4000 ft of gain in 12 miles. It’s also a great place to hike in the snow when we get the rare dusting in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

Or, you can do a lollipop shaped hike by turning on Priest Rock Trail and connecting to the Limekiln trail.  This gets you the same amount of elevation gain in 14 miles. If you’re feeling really ambitious you could do this loop with the additional side trip to El Sombroso. This will add on another 2 miles and a few hundred additional feet of gain.

East Bay

Pond and delightfully flat but short stretch of trail
Pond and delightfully flat but short stretch of trail

Rose Peak from Sunol Regional Wilderness

Until recently, Rose Peak was known as the high point of Alameda County. That honor actually belongs to a slightly higher bump on a nearby ridge according to recent measurements. Rose, however, is the highest *legally accessible* point in Alameda County. It is along the Ohlone Wilderness trail about half way between Sunol and DelValle. The track I’ve included here is the slightly shorter Sunol approach via the Ohlone Wilderness Trail, coming in at 17 miles with about 4200 ft of gain.

Like most of these hikes this is best hiked in the spring since there is very little shade on the trails and it gets very hot and dry in the summer. The winter can be muddy. But the spring is usually beautiful with green rolling hills and wildflowers.

Monument and Mission Peaks from Ed Levin County Park

Coyote below Monument Peak
Coyote below Monument Peak

Mission Peak is an extraordinarily popular summit with hundreds of people hiking it each weekend. Most people, however, take the short approach from the Stanford Road trailhead. The longer and more difficult approach via Ed Levin County Park is, in my opinion, much more enjoyable since the trails aren’t busy. The most likely place you’ll see someone is on a hang glider soaring above. The hardest part of this hike is the first and last few miles where you climb from the parking area to the ridge. Once the steepest climb is done you can take the side trip to the quiet summit of Monument Peak, then follow the undulating ridge over to Mission Peak. After enjoying the view with the large crowds that will no doubt join you on the summit, you can retrace your steps back along the ridge.

There are some variations to this loop – it can be an in and out, or you can follow different trails up and down. In any case, is is approximately 14 miles long with about 3500 feet of gain. It’s not the most strenuous of these hikes but it’s a beautiful wildflower hike in the spring and if you love rolling ridge walks this is a good one.

Murietta Falls
Murietta Falls

Murietta Falls

Murietta Falls is also along the Ohlone Wilderness Trail and is not that far from Rose Peak. But this hike starts on the opposite end in Del Valle Regional Park. Just like the hikes in Coe, this goes up and over a few different ridges between the trailhead and the falls. Over the 15 mile round trip you’ll gain almost 5000 feet.

Although there is a bit more shade on this hike than the others, spring and winter are still the best seasons for this hike. The waterfall dries up easily so if you want to see water find a nice day about a week after a good rainfall. There should be water in the falls but the trails should have had some time to dry out.

North Bay

Mt Tamalpais Steep Ravine Trail
Mt Tamalpais Steep Ravine Trail

Mt Tamalpais from Stinson Beach

This is kind of an unusual hike in that you have to do a lot of work to get to a place you can drive to. The loop I’ve included here is one of many options; there are so many trails on Mt Tam that you could probably hike this every day for a month and not do the same exact loop twice. Coming in around 16 miles with a bit over 3000 feet of gain, it doesn’t have quite the vertical oomph of the other hikes I’ve listed here, but it provides a different type of scenery than the stuff south of San Francisco. The Steep Ravine trail is rich with deep, damp shades of green. Starting at the ocean usually means a nice cool layer of fog to make the beginning climbs more comfortable.

When you get to the summit you’ll be joined by the picnicking families and tourists that have driven to the top. Grab a hotdog and cold soda from the stand. (Yes, this summit has a hot dog stand. Don’t expect that on Mt Whitney).

 

 

Sunol Regional Wilderness: Maguire Peaks and Flag Hill Loop

Maguire Peaks
Maguire Peaks

Yesterday was the first day of summer around here. We never had much of a winter, and it seems like mother nature is skipping right over spring and dropping us in the middle of July without much transition time. So I decided to spend the year’s first 90 degree day by getting in a long hike in one of my favorite Bay Area Parks, Sunol Regional Wilderness.

For years I’ve had my eye on the Maguire Peaks loop but I’ve never managed to get over there. It’s not like it’s any harder than any of the other hikes I’ve done, it’s just never worked out. Maguire is visible from highway 680, differentiating itself from the surrounding rounded mountain tops due to the slanted rocky outcroppings along the ridge. It doesn’t have the popularity of its more prominent neighbors (Rose, Diablo, Mission), so I thought it would be a good destination for a day where many people would be out enjoying the weather.

The shortest loop around Maguire is somewhere around six miles, but I was feeling more ambitious than that and parked at the farthest end of the park near the corral. (park map – .gif) From this parking lot I climbed the McCorkle Trail to the junction with the Canyon View Trail. I saw the best wildflowers of the day on this first mile of hiking.

McCorkle Flowers
McCorkle Flowers

Then it was back down to the Indian Joe Creek Trail which is a lovely shaded walk up a lightly running creek. I could already feel the heat of the day so I appreciated starting off easy.  After passing Cave Rocks (which I did not explore due to poison oak and rattlesnake season) I turned west on High Valley Road and followed it all the way down to Welch Creek Road.

High Valley Road and camp
High Valley Road and camp

I could have parked on Welch Creek Road and done the peaks from there, but what fun is that? Instead, I crossed the road and walked up to the Upper Maguire Peaks Trail. This is a fun, super narrow and crumbling trail along a steep hillside. I know some people with height sensitivities that would have been very uncomfortable on this trail. I was certainly watching my step carefully!

Most stable Part of the Trail
Most stable Part of the Trail

After the harrowing ~1/2 mile I was happy to be back on old ranch road where I could enjoy the view and not have to watch my feet so carefully. Eventually I got a good look at Maguire Peaks and could figure out my plan of attack for the summit. A trail circles the peaks but doesn’t go the summit. The left peak is the high one, and I knew that there is a use trail that runs from a bench on the north side of the loop to the summit. From that point I wasn’t sure if I could get through the bands of rock to the lower peak. If I could make the lower peak I picked out a grassy ramp that I could take back to the trail and bookmarked the bottom of it on my GPS.

Higher Maguire Peak Rock Bands (right)
Higher Maguire Peak Rock Bands (right)

I looped around the peaks and found the bench, then took the use trail to the summit as planned. From there, I was able to descend through some of the thinner rock bands but got stuck at the big one. I’m pretty sure I could have found a way through but I didn’t want to do anything stupid since I was off-trail and by myself. With a group I’m fairly certain we could have figured it out. Oh well, now I have an excuse to go back. So I turned around and went back down the use trail, then finished the loop around the peaks.

Use Trail to Maguire
Use Trail to Maguire

Returning back to the main part of the park via the lower trail (so I skipped the narrow bits), it was a pretty easy final few miles up and over Flag Hill. When I can measure climbs in hundreds of feet of gain rather than thousands I consider it easy! The descent off Flag Hill back to the main parking area is pretty steep, and since it was the end of the day I was kind of wishing I had poles along. I was getting tired and started to have what I call “stupid feet” (making stupid mistakes because I’m tired and I know I’m almost done).

Trail descending Flag Hill
Trail descending Flag Hill

At Sunol, you can make loops as small or as big as you want. I’ve done 20 mile hikes there and I’ve done 3 mile hikes there and I’ve enjoyed them all. Once you get a mile or so from the visitor’s center it’s easy to find solitude, even though it’s close to one of the US’s biggest population centers.


Bay Area Wildflowers

I can’t believe I forgot to post an entry on this, but a very kind comment I received yesterday spurred me to action.

Last weekend I visited two local parks that are right now known for their wildflower displays: Harvey Bear Ranch (east of Morgan Hill) and Santa Theresa County Park in south San Jose. The key word there is ‘wildflower’ so I won’t continue typing – rather I’ll point you to the photos. If you’re in the Bay Area this weekend and looking for a nice place to see the flowers, I’d recommend either park.

I think I’m going to check out Sierra Azul this weekend.

California Poppy
California Poppy
Poppy and Bee
Poppy and Bee

2008 MROSD Photo Contest

The Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District is running their annual photo contest from now through October 31.  Submit your best photos from the Open Spaces to the contest group on Flickr.  Up to five entries per person. You retain ownership rights of the photos submitted (though you do grant royalty-free use to the MROSD). The prizes are pretty nice and appropriate to the theme:

One (1) Grand Prize

  • Two nights at Pescadero Creek Inn Bed and Breakfast
  • California State Parks Annual Day Use Pass
  • $50 Dining certificate to Alice’s Restaurant (on Skyline Blvd.)
  • District guidebook Tales & Trails

One (1) Second Prize

  • Garmin handheld GPS unit
  • District guidebook Tales & Trails

One (1) Third Prize

  • Duarte’s Gift Box
  • One year subscription to Sunset magazine
  • District guidebook Tales & Trails

Now I just need some time to dig through my folders of shots from these parks!

Pleasanton Ridge Dayhike

I almost forgot to post my photos from last weekend! Before it gets too hot, I wanted to visit a new East Bay park. I settled on Pleasanton Ridge and met a couple of others there for a day of hiking and geocaching. It was a good place for wildflowers, but I wouldn’t want to hike there in the heat of summer – 80 degrees was warm enough. Pictures available here: Pleasanton Ridge

El Toro in Morgan Hill – that Peak that beckons from 101

Anyone from the Bay Area is familiar with that cone-shaped peak just outside of Morgan Hill. You know – that one just west of 101. As a hiker, this peak has been calling to me for years, just asking for me to stand on top of it. Unfortunately, this peak (El Toro) is on private property and the only legal way to climb it is to participate in the once-annual Morgan Hill Historical Society sponsored hike. At 1,420.3 feet, it’s a Bay Area ‘Fourteener’.

We met Tom and Russ, fellow hiking bloggers, before 8 am and joined the throng of people just itching to summit El Toro. After a brief lecture from a geologist the hike began, and hundreds of people swarmed towards the peak.

Gaining about 1000 feet in a mile, this isn’t an easy hike by most people’s standards. It’s steep, gravelly, and has poison oak just waiting for you to make a mistake. There’s no warm up stretch – it’s just straight up and then straight down, no time for breathers unless you stop. I’m glad I just got back from a good strenuous backpacking trip – made this hike seem a lot easier than it would have been if I was in my normal sluggish winter form. They even have ropes up for the last gravelly stretch to assist people on the slick gravel.

My pictures here: El Toro, Morgan Hill

Tom’s report of the harrowing El Toro Ascent here: The Fourteener of Morgan Hill

Geocaching CITO (Cache-In-Trash-Out) at Pinnacles National Monument

Moonset at Pinnacles
Moonset at Pinnacles

Dave and I spent the weekend at Pinnacles National Monument. The park recently acquired a large parcel of new land and this land includes the old campground that used to be just outside the East entrance. The land needs a lot work since it has missed out on the preservation done within the park, and we were happy to be a part of a volunteer crew that contributed a few hours to the park through a Geocaching CITO event.

There were two tasks that our group contributed to: the first was to pull out invasive horehound plants from the old ranch lands that are now part of the park. Thousands of plants were cleaned out by the crew – great job! The second task was to build a fence and work on trail re-vegitation in the campground. There was a big open meadow that had been stomped down by people over the years. We built a rustic wooden fence around it while others mulched up the old trails to prepare for re-vegitation. It was hard but fun work. It was quite interesting to learn about the park’s expansion, and also get some education about the park’s condor program (we watched them soaring far above us near a roost on a ridge).

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