Rocky Mountain National Park: Green Meadow, Cub Lake, Flattop Mountain

Rocky Mountain National Park - Longs Peak
Rocky Mountain National Park - Longs Peak

Now that I’m back from my Thanksgiving Trip it’s time to get back to blogging about the previous trip! I need to catch up…

We had set aside a couple of days to spend in Rocky Mountain National Park. The closest I’ve ever been to the Rockies is in an airplane so I was looking forward to spending some time in my favorite terrain: above 10k ft.

After spending the night in the lovely Grand Lake, CO we headed into the park via the West entrance and stopped briefly at the visitor’s center. It was quiet and empty and a ranger took his time to talk us through some ways we could spend the two days we had in the park. My original plans were focused around climbing Longs Peak on Day 2 but recent storms had left the upper part of the peak ice covered and dangerous. Instead, we decided to check out some different places in the park and look for wildlife and fall colors.

 

Big Meadow, Green Mountain Trail
Big Meadow, Green Mountain Trail

Our first stop was the Green Mountain trail. It was a lower elevation relatively easy hike that would take us by some meadows where we might see a moose or two. The ranger had recommended it as our best chance of a sighting for that time of day so we took off from the car with cameras in tow. Alas, the moose hid from us and all we got to see was some nice mountain terrain. Darn. (yes that was sarcastic).

 

High-Elevation (12k) elk along Trail Ridge Road
High-Elevation (12k) elk along Trail Ridge Road

Since it was out first visit, we continued along Trail Ridge Road and did all the touristy stops and viewpoints. We saw tons of elk, pikas, and fall colors. It was beautiful and desolate and very different than my Sierra. I’m used to sharp granite terrain and high alpine meadows at 12k, not rolling gentle tundra. I was kind of surprised – my expectations of the Rockies being as dramatic as the Eastern Sierra were not met. However, it was quite beautiful in its own different way.

 

Tundra Trail, a 'tourist' trail at 11,000+ feet.
Tundra Trail, a 'tourist' trail at 11,000+ feet.

We made our way down to the Moraine Campground on the east side of the park by mid-afternoon. Many of the park’s campgrounds had closed the prior weekend for the winter season but we were able to book a decent site. It’s usually not our style to stay in busy campgrounds but it’s convenient to have a place reserved in a park where we’re not familiar with off-the-beaten-track alternates.

After settling in at our campsite we decided to spend the last few hours of daylight hiking the Cub Lake/Fern Canyon loop out of the campground. It was a beautiful loop with all kinds of bright fall colors. The surface of Cub Lake was blanketed in lily pads and ducks. On the return loop through Fern Canyon we walked by a really interesting looking cluster of boulders dusted with chalk – clearly a popular climbing place and I wish I’d brought my shoes.

 

Cub Lake and Fall Colors
Cub Lake and Fall Colors

As we were walking the final mile or so back to camp we heard the weirdest sounds – a whistling grunting noise. It took a few listens to determine that it was the elk herds in Moraine Meadows, rutting and making all kinds of commotion. Though it was quite entertaining they went all night and I had to put in my ear plugs to sleep through it.

 

An elk harem next to camp
An elk harem next to camp

The next morning we got up and drove to Bear Lake, a popular destination for fall colors. During much of the year they recommend a shuttle due to the overflowing parking, but we were there early enough that we got parking and headed off down the trail. Bear Lake was beautiful with its bright yellow aspens, but I really enjoyed the area once we got about 1/2 mile up the trail to Flattop Mountain. We left the tourons behind and had the trail mostly to ourselves all the way to the summit.

 

Flattop Mountain Trail Aspens
Flattop Mountain Trail Aspens

 

Pika on the Flattop Trail (click for larger)
Pika on the Flattop Trail (click for larger)

The summit of Flattop is, well, flat. And kind of boring. But the hike offers great views of the surrounding peaks (including Longs), fall colors (amazing aspen groves throughout the first mile) and lots of wildlife (I saw more pikas than I could count). We wanted something that would occupy our morning and it was a perfect morning hike.

 

Flattop Summit
Flattop Summit

By afternoon we were on the road to Boulder to begin the middle segment of the roadtrip – the Great American Beer Festival (with some interesting non-beer daytrips – the next post)!

Links:
Green Mountain Trail, RMNP


Cub Lake Loop, RMNP


Flattop Peak, RMNP


Dinosaur National Monument: More than just bones

Lizard Petroglyph, Dinosaur National Monument
Lizard Petroglyph, Dinosaur National Monument

After our lovely time in Great Basin National Park we drove across Utah towards Price Canyon Recreation Area, a BLM area with some nice bouldering and a quiet campground. But at the turnoff we were greeted with a chained gate and a “CAMPGROUND CLOSED” sign. Since we still had plenty of daylight left we decided to continue on the extra couple of hours to Dinosaur National Monument where we found ourselves a decent campsite just before dark. It was primarily an RV-filled campground but it was quiet and peaceful, set just along the Green River.

In the morning we quickly packed up the truck and started down the Tour of the Tilted Rocks road to a cliff filled with petroglyph panels. The petroglyphs here are characterized by animal figures, human figures, decorative clothing (necklaces, headdresses) and abstracts. I was especially interested in the human figures because we don’t see those in the areas I’m used to visiting.

David photographing the glyphs
David photographing the glyphs

The rock art was fascinating and different than what we have seen before, so we spent quite a while exploring and photographing the panels. I’m not sure which was my favorite – it was either the giant (2ft+) lizard pictured above and an equally large kokopelli.

 

Kokopelli glyph
Kokopelli glyph

Eventually we moved on and worked our way back down the road to the Sounds of Silence Trail, a 3 mile loop that passes through various geologic formations. It was nice to hike a bit through some scenic terrain.

Slickrock, Sounds of Silence Trail
Slickrock, Sounds of Silence Trail

We then drove out of the park and stopped at the temporary visitor’s center. Our timing was perfect as a shuttle bus was just getting ready to depart for the Fossil Discovery Trail and we decided to hop on. I originally thought we wouldn’t get a chance to see the actual dinosaur bones in Dinosaur National Monument due to the temporary closure and remodeling of the Visitor’s Center, but this was a great opportunity to explore a wall of bones with the guidance of a docent. The most impressive wall of bones is part of the Visitors center so we’ll have to go back and catch that one sometime.

Vertebrae, Dinosaur National Monument
Vertebrae, Dinosaur National Monument

After lunch we headed west again, driving into the Rockies and ending up at a hotel in Grand Lake, Colorado, just on the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park. Along the way we started to see some really good fall colors; I  was looking forward to the photographic opportunities in the next few days.

Sounds of Silence Trail, Dinosaur NM


24 Hours in Great Basin National Park: Wheeler Peak and Lehman Caves

Wheeler Peak, Great Basin National Park
Wheeler Peak, Great Basin National Park

After much delay and anticipation I have finally found time to sit down and publish photos and some posts about our road trip to Colorado. We were on the road for seventeen days, leaving September 23 and returning to San Jose on October 9. The catalyst for this road trip was the Great American Beer Festival in Denver. We decided that instead of simply flying out for the three day festival we would make the best of it and visit as many parks as we could on a two week drive to Denver and back. Our first stop was Great Basin National Park.

Leaving after work on Friday, we drove over 120 and camped just off of the road between Mono Lake and Benton. The next morning we connected with Highway 6 and began the long drive across Nevada. This drive goes something like this: Mountain. Fun pass! Flat. Flat. Flat (nice view of the mountains in the distance). Flat flat flat. MOUNTAINS PASS Flat flat flat flat. MOUNTAIN. Nice view. FLAT. FLAT.

Saturday Morning Campsite View
Saturday Morning Campsite View

By 1 pm we had nearly reached the border of Nevada and Utah and turned south towards the visitor’s center at Great Basin National Park. We planned on getting tickets for the 3pm Lehman Caves tour, spending the night in the park, and then hiking Wheeler Peak the following morning. Unfortunately the tickets for the cave tour were sold out, so we reserved tickets for the next day’s 9am tour and decided to book it to the Wheeler Peak Trailhead for a sunset hike of the second highest peak in Nevada (13,063 ft).

Wheeler Peak Trailhead (click for large)
Wheeler Peak Trailhead (click for large)

By 2:45 we were at the trailhead and packed up for the 8 mile, 3000 ft gain hike to the summit of Wheeler. There is a trail all the way to the top so route finding was not a concern, but I kept my GPS running and headlamps packed. The trail begins by passing through several aspen groves, with occasional peeks of the impressive eastern headwall of Wheeler. The first two miles are gently graded and hard packed dirt, making for a quick approach to the rocky ridge that the final two miles follow to the peak. The second half of the hike is still quite straightforward since there is a trail, but it does get steeper and rockier and potentially much more uncomfortable due to the exposure (not drop offs, rather the lack of any trees or protection from the elements). Luckily we had a beautiful evening and easily made the summit by 5 pm.

Climbing Wheeler Peak Ridge
Climbing Wheeler Peak Ridge

We had passed many descending hikers on our climb; it seems that this is a popular hike in Great Basin. Due to our late start we had the summit to ourselves. Finally, the lengthening shadows and dropping temperature reminded us that there was a cozy campfire and hot dinner ahead so we quickly descended the trail, stopping only to take pictures of the golden sunset light on the surrounding valleys and mountains.

Me on the summit of Wheeler (David in distance)
Me on the summit of Wheeler (David in distance)

Ambient light lit the way until the final 1/3 mile where the now pitch black aspen groves forced me to switch on my headlamp. Back at the truck by 7pm, we threw our packs in the back and drove the 1/2 mile down the road to Wheeler Peak Campground where we settled in for a cold fall night at 10k ft.

Descending Wheeler
Descending Wheeler

The following morning we had a leisurely coffee around camp and then drove down to the Visitor Center for our 9am tour of Lehman Caves. It was similar to other cave tours we’ve done; cool formations, interesting guide, and too many photos taken. After our 90 minute tour and an early picnic lunch we hopped back in the truck to continue our drive east. Next destination: Dinosaur National Monument.

Lehman Caves
Lehman Caves

It seems that many people come to Great Basin just for the caves, but make sure to look around other places. It’s a quiet and diverse park in the middle of nowhere. Being used to parks like Yosemite it was nice to be able to drive into a campground at 7pm on a Saturday night and have our choice of spots. Don’t miss it!

Wheeler Peak, Great Basin National Park